PRESS: HENRIK VIBSKOV AW13 – THE STIFF NECK CHAMBER

Knowing Henrik's penchant for referencing an assortment of influences, Autumn/ Winter 13 seeks guidance from birds, religion, death, ancient builders carrying the title of “stiff necks“ and rituals aligned with the afterlife.

The styling of each model's individual headdress is completed with stiff wooden frames showing crane-like support. The showpiece shoes are handcrafted with crochet and knit detail, each featuring a section of print that will be made available through Vibskov's collaboration with Dale of Norway, a tradition-rich knit manufacturer from Norway.

The collection itself features, once again, a mix of print, pattern, structures, knit and woven fabric. The clothing is not emblazoned with iconic controversy. It is a more subtle approach in design with the exception of the flamingo print; an obvious and key print that repeats itself on mens shirting, jackets and trousers, and several accessory pieces.

Familiar silhouettes are integral, continuing the Vibskov language that has become signature to his style. Heavy cotton parkas and coats, useful for both men and women, draw on lines from seasons past; trousers echo a familiar hipline pleat, and shirts are detailed by a fusion of fabrics and colours. Mens tailoring is boxier this season with shortened, widened legs.

Outerwear and jersey work towards a sporty aesthetic via casual sweats and quilted vests, and details imitate themselves, building on the outside of pockets and seams. The womens range takes a more feminine turn, featuring delicate plisse in silks and distorted prints. Blouses with pretty girl collars, dresses with circle skirts and wide-legged trousers in soft shapes reinforce the new direction. And yet still, there are elements to winter that are typically 'Vibskov'.

Photography: Copenhagen Fashion Week.